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Scroll Down for the Latest Update... 9/8/2011
As of 6/25/2010, It's Rideable!!
Other items to add:
Here are a few pics of the bare frame, battery planning, controller placement, rear disk brake setup. Hope to have finished, operational bike pics soon. Attached Images File Type: jpg planning battery box 2 small.jpg (78.9 KB, 32 views) File Type: jpg controller mounting 1 small.jpg (50.9 KB, 20 views) File Type: jpg rear disc brake small.jpg (58.5 KB, 19 views) File Type: jpg battery box in position small.jpg (47.2 KB, 19 views) File Type: jpg unpainted frame 2 small.jpg (43.8 KB, 21 views)
The next step is to figure out which noises and rattles are expected, and which ones can be cured. And the wiring needs to be tied down, neatened up.
I have some Lexan that is to be used for a fairing. If it is painted on the inside, you get a great look, at least until it gets scratched up. Lexan is quite soft.
The pictures show the rats nest of wiring. You can also see the battery box. It is pop-riveted, bolted to the frame on the bottom with U-bolts, on the back to the old motor mount holes. The batteries sit on a rubber car floor mat that cost under $2.00. They are also strapped with galvanized steel from Lowes, straps normally used for decking. The straps are pulled tight in the front with threaded rod. They are also pulled together in the middle with more threaded rod.
The contactor and fuse sit in front of the batteries on one side of the frame, bolted on a piece of aluminum diamond plate. On the opposite side of the frame is another piece of diamond plate holding the current shunt for the Cycle Analyst, and also holding the DC/DC converter.
Every step of making this electric motorcycle has been an interesting challenge, starting with taking apart a rusty old hulk. The fenders were pitted chrome, now painted. The front fork covers that also hold the headlamp were rusted, so I had to get new covers, which came with front forks. The seat was rusted out and replaced with a less rusty seat that had to be fiberglass reinforced. The front disc brake assembly was replaced with a less rusty used one. The spring for the brake switch was rusted out. The switches on the handle bars were mostly non-functional. The headlamp was changed to a replaceable 9004 type, and the headlamp reflector chrome flaked off. The headlamp reflector now has dull chrome paint that is as shiny as scratched up aluminum.
It was a very interesting and engaging project, a one time only project. Or this may just be a forever project. Forever replacing old worn out parts. Adding more batteries, re-arranging the electronics, adding instrumentation, etc.
The battery charger now has some issues, but things should be resolved in the next few working day.
Next on the list is to construct some kind of fairing to cover the electronics.
The interesting part was the license examiner. He never acknowledged that this was anything other than a standard engine motorcycle. He asked what size engine, and I told him it was a Honda CB200 model, pointing out the label on the side. He looked at it, wrote it down and the test went on. He never acknowledged the total quiet when the bike was stopped, and the near total quiet when it was moving. I think he was oblivious to this being an electric motorcycle. Very strange, I thought.
 Driving Lights. |
 Rear Master Cyl mounting |
I also added 2 driving lights to assist the rather poor 1970's headlamp. The 2 added lights are Cree R2 LED lamps, 3.7 to 18 VDC, from dealextreme.com. The original headlamp is rather useless for night driving.
Now have over 500 miles on the bike, and I'm now commuting to work on it. It uses 80 to 100 watt hours per mile, depending on the speed. Regen ranges from 1 to 2% on rural roads to 5% in city riding.
At a half mile, these LED lights are more visible, day or night, than the original
headlamp, even though they are just an inch in diameter, compared to the
6 inches of the headlamp.
LED Lamp picture:
 New Windshield. |
 New Windshield mounting |
The windshield material is 1/8" Lexan.
Hardware consists of 3/8 x 16 threaded rod, plastic 3/8" ID tubing to sheath the rod, 3/4" pipe hangers on the handlebars, 3/8 x 16 nuts on the inside of the windshield, stainless steel washers, neoprene washers, stainless acorn nuts on the front, 1/2" aluminum rod held in place with binding barrels and screws, black vinyl edge trim.
The windshield is tight, vibration free. The cost was about $55. The is about 1/3 the cost of a retail brand windshield. It took only 3 or 4 trips to the hardware stores. Stores of course, because you can never get all you need at just one place.
I think this adds about 1 mph to the top speed of the bike. The windshield will also make the bike more comfortable in the cool weather coming soon.
Update 9/8/2011
Now it sports a new fairing and 96 volt battery!
Here is the CB200T upgraded from 72 volts to 96 volts. This change ups the top speed to 55 to 60 mph.
The bike now has about 3100 miles on it. It has a new controller. Actually this is the third controller, after defects with the first two.
The battery fairing is made of one eighth inch Lexan. The old fairing did not fit well after upgrading the battery pack to 96 volts. This fairing is made in 3 parts. The lower part was cold formed, just bent with four right angle bends to go around the batteries. The upper part of the fairing consists of a right hand and left hand piece, cold formed with a vice and rubber mallet and for the tighter bends, hot formed with the aid of a heat gun.
The Honda logo and "Electric" logo are purchased add-on decals. --
